India, in PortlandBollywood Theater serves up from-scratch Indian street food

First published 11 January 2022

AT BOLLYWOOD THEATER in Portland, chef and owner Troy MacLarty takes freshness to heights rarely seen. Between his two locations, he and his crew send out 2,000 to 3,000 plates daily from an all-from-scratch kitchen.

Kati rolls are his biggest sellers. The flat bread is formed four to six times a day to produce 125,000 rolls a year for a faithful following willing to stand in lines out the door on weekends. It is MacLarty s inspired and passionate interpretation of Indian street food for which the masses clamor.

From two kitchens that mirror one another, Indian staples like ghee (a type of clarified butter), more than a dozen masalas, marinated paneer, paratha, kati marinade, cabbage slaw, green chutney, sweet & hot (an Indian condiment similar to spicy ketchup), bhel puri (the closest thing to a salad in Indian cuisine featuring nineteen different ingredients) and papri crackers are created and then served to a slew of satisfied diners.

Thanks to his annual travels to India, MacLarty is nailing the atmosphere as well as the menu.

We do our best to put our food in the proper cultural context so that it makes sense to our diners," MacLarty said. "Ordering at a counter and eating off steel plates in a loud and boisterous room adds to the experience. It wouldn't make sense to eat street food in a fine dining setting.'

His favorite menu item is dahi papri chaat, a sort of Indian comfort food with a Northwest twist that he strives for.